If your riding mower will not start (most of these tips are applicable to push mowers also):
Scot S16/42 Riding Mower (Kohler engine) won't turn over. I have a good battery, new starter motor, new ignition switch, new starter solenoid, good gas, good spark plug, clean air filter, all safety switches work properly - all the normal stuff that prevents a riding mower gas engine from starting checked.
When I turn the key, (yes gas valve is turned on: throttle lever in start/chock position), nothing happens, no click...nothing.
If I use a jumper cable from the positive battery post and touch it to the positive electric starter motor (key in run position), the starter motor will turn over and start the engine.
Sometimes, when turning the key normally to start the engine, nothing happens until I start moving the throttle lever back and forth from the start/fast to normal run rpm's position simultaneously whilst holding the key in the start position - then starter motor turns over, and starts the engine. This is weird!
I have a walk behind mower that wouldn't start and I finally figured out that the safety kill lever cable was stretched and kept the engine grounded. Once I changed out the stretched cable with a new one, the mower started on the first pull every time.
So my question is - does this throttle cable on my SCOT's riding mower also work as a cut-off the electricity ground like the walk behind mower has? if so, the problem might be the same - stretched cable? Or something else going on?
When I turn the key the B+G 12.5hp engine (lawn tractor) turns and then sticks. The starter is new. Is the next potential suspect battery or solenoid?
If your lawn mower starts, runs briefly, then dies these are the four most common reasons that's happening:
1. Loose carburetor
A loose carburetor will not let your engine function well because there will be an insufficient flow and atomization of gas due to unstable attachment of the carburetor. Check the carburetor first if it is fixed firmly before determining other problems.
2. Dirty carburetor or clogged carburetor bowl
Your engine needs a steady flow of gasoline to run correctly. The carburetor is responsible for mixing gas with just the right amount of oxygen to create combustion. This combustion supplies a continuous rotation of the crankshaft that is necessary to run the mower's engine. If your carburetor is dirty or the carburetor bowl is clogged, the process above is compromised, and your engine may start up, but it will not run properly - turns and then sticks.
Unscrew the carburetor bowl and give it a once over with the cleaner - blowout your dirty carburetor with an aerosol of carburetor cleaner. Be sure to clean the screw and hole with the carburetor cleaner as well. When reattaching the bowl, don't over-tighten the screw. This could strip the threads enough to distort the seal.
3. Old gasoline in your mower
If the gas in your mower has been sitting inactive for a while, evaporation has most likely created a damaging residue. This residue leaves particles that clog your mower's internal parts and the end result is restricted gas flow - your mower can start and die shortly thereafter. Sometimes, your mower won't start at all.
If your mower tank is less than half full of old gas, you might try adding new gas to dilute the impurities. If the old gas is more than half of a tank, it would be best to siphon it out and fill the tank with fresh gasoline.
Adding a stabilizer prevent the clogging residue for up to two years. Always read the directions to know the proper fuel to stabilizer ratio for your mower.
4. Dirty or defective spark plugs
Spark plugs supply the "spark" that ignites the air / fuel mixture in your engine. If they are dirty or faulty, they will not spark, and your mower will not start, or may start and then quickly die.
5. Blocked gasoline cap
If this hole gets blocked, this can create a vacuum inside the tank and there will be a disruption of the gas moving downward into the carburetor.
6. Too much oil in your resevoir
If your carburetor is clean and the spark plugs are firing, the problem might be too much oil. If a lot of smoke is coming out, your mower might be running, but not for long. In this case, the excess oil will eventually drown out the engine and cause it to die.
You just need to drain some. Use a dipstick to measure the amount of oil in the reservoir before removing it, and then again after to make sure you get the right level. Not enough oil is another (and more serious) problem.
7. Worn-out carburetor
If your lawnmower has served you for years and undergone many repairs, the carburetor will be the first one that must be replaced followed by other replaceable parts.
8. Clogged air filter.
Replace the filter.
If your problem still is not fixed, then call a professional.
Hi, I had checked the fluids before starting and I did a couple rounds. I had pause for a moment and had foot on the clutch and was idling on rabbit, I slow it down to middle and then let go of the clutch and then it stalled and it won't start again.
Just "rearing" but won't catch. What can I do about this simple problem?Did you hold in the clutch AND also set the engine speed back to start position? It probably won't start with the speed set on rabbit. If you need to, read through your owner's manual for a little refresher on your mower operations. Also, did your fluid check include the fuel? I know it seems like a no-brainer, but we all forget the simple things sometimes. Good luck.
My riding mower will not start unless I charge the battery. Parts store says battery is good.
If the battery needs charging to start the mower normally this means that one solenoid inside the battery is bad or is going bad. If this is the case when the store tests the battery it can test fine on the battery tester. Considering the solenoid is going out in the battery and it takes a full charge to start a mower it is better to get a new battery or just keep charging the battery each time you want to use the mower until the battery finally dies and buy a new one.
Most likely your battery is in the final stages and does need to be replaced.
I feel sure the parts store did a fast check on your battery and they needed to do a slow check (takes longer of course) to find your problem.
Be sure to buy your battery at a store that has a good warranty on their batteries. I have usually found that Walmart carries most size batteries and their stock seems to be fresher than many other stores - even the parts stores.
Most of their batteries have a 2 year replacement - not a partial payment like most others.
My rider won't start. I replaced the filter, plugs, and fuel pump. It's not getting gas. Any ideas? If I put gas directly into the carb it starts for a few seconds. The gas lines are clear.
Have you tried to clean out the injectors yet? When you pump the gas is it going into the gas lines. What I mean by this if you try and pump the gas and remove the gas line from the carburetor do you see gas coming out of the lines? If not then there is an issue with the lines being plugged or you are having an issue with the new fuel pump not pumping the files through the lines. Have you tried to prime the fuel pump to get it pumping the fuel?
That's a bummer!
Why did you decide to replace all those 'parts'?
Your mower would not start or would not run?
Have you been able to use it this season or had trouble from the beginning?
Did you put mower to bed last year with gas in the tank? If so, did you add any kind of gas storing additive?
If old gas you need to remove gas and use only new gas. You will need a Siphon Kit for removing gas. These are sold at Walmart or any auto parts store. If you go to an auto parts store then you may need to also purchase a can of starting fluid. This is to spray into your carburetor to get it started and maybe clean out the fuel jets.
Also - if you did not replace the air filter (you just said 'filters' so gas? or?) this would be a good move.
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You can discuss your problem with someone at the auto parts store and they may have some additional solutions to try.
I have zero turn Z4200 riding mower and this particular day I was mowing and the mower lost power and stopped running and I tried to restart again, but wouldn't even crank over. I used a screw driver on the solenoid and it would turn over with very minimal power. I took the spark plug off and cranked it over and had a good spark and good compression as well, but when I placed my finger on the spark plug hole the compression was not enough compression to push my finger off the spark plug hole. With my finger still on spark plug hole I used a screw driver on the solenoid with my finger on the spark plug hole it has no power to push my finger off the spark plug hole.
Do I need power out of both posts on my solenoid for my mower to crank over?
From reading this article I would say the answer is yes homeguides.sfgate.com/