January 19, 20170 found this helpful
It is possible that the light is fed from the load side of a GFCI or AFCI receptacle. If this is the case, it would be an easy fix to reset the tripped receptacle.
Going beyond that, I would hire an electrician to help identify that both the power and the neutral are continuous to the light. (a meter would show about zero resistance between neutral and ground and with power on it would show 120 VAC between hot and neutral or ground)
January 10, 20171 found this helpful
It is possible that the ballasts have gone bad in your fluorescent fixtures. There is a tester for lamps, but it is cost prohibitive for the home user. Your electrician may have one. You could also see if the lamps are good by placing them in a working fixture. If the lamps are good, your next step would be to have an electrician replace the ballasts (assuming you have power to the ballast when the GFCI is reset and the switch is on).
November 18, 20160 found this helpful
With a non contact voltage pen, check to see if you still read voltage at the non-functioning receptacles. My guess is you do.
The dishwasher needed a neutral to run as well as a hot. It is also my guess that the neutral to your dishwasher goes to the neutral in your electrical panel. (It may be the the bare ground goes to the ground in your electrical panel.) It should be both, my guess is you only have one.
The dishwasher may have had a jumper between the neutral connection and the metal frame which is not code legal.
The bare ground wire, if wired correctly, should read a short circuit to the neutral because they are bonded in your panel. My guess is yours do not. I believe your bare ground wire or your neutral wire is used to feed the neutral of the non functioning receptacles. The dishwasher tied the neutral and bare wires together to allow your other receptacles to work.
I would have an electrician fix this correctly for you.
October 19, 20160 found this helpful
Check to make sure a GFCI is not tripped
October 17, 20160 found this helpful
It is possible that an amateur tried to install a 3-way switch to a light by using two single pole switches on two different circuits. This would work until both switches were turned on resulting in a hazardous dead short.
Have an electrician check the wire for power with all your light switches off. If it goes away, he/she can then turn on each switch until it comes back and identify the problem.
If the breaker works in tandem to supply load to a 240 volt device such as a stove or dryer, it is possible that the load device has failed in a short causing your breaker to trip.
October 3, 20161 found this helpful
It sounds like the lights and receptacle are on the same circuit which could be tripped. A circuit can be tripped at:
* the breaker
* a GFCI receptacle
* an AFCI receptacle
Check to make sure that no other receptacles are tripped that could be AFCI or GFCI. This receptacle could be the one feeding power to your circuit.
If you don't know how, have someone with knowledge of circuit breakers check your electrical panel to make sure the breaker is not tripped.
It is possible that someone wired another switch upstream of the devices you mentioned. If so you could check this by turning on the light switches for the ceiling light and turning on other switches.
If all this reveals nothing the something else has opened the circuit and it would be time to call an electrican.
September 28, 20160 found this helpful
Have an electrician check it out for you.
The Skil saw should only taken out the breaker of the circuit you were on unless something extreme occurred like you used it to cut through the service to the panel.
If this is on a sub-panel in a shop or garage, it is possible that what tripped was the breaker feeding this panel from the main panel.
If no breakers are tripped and this is the only panel in your home and your entire home is dark, you need to call your electrical utility.
September 19, 20160 found this helpful
If you only have one electrical panel (could you have a subpanel feeding this outlet?) and you have tried killing power on each circuit (I assume you checked the single pole breakers), and you are not generating electricity, then my guess is that a 240 volt circuit is feeding this outlet.
Another question is how did you check the circuit? A plug in tester is good, but even simpler is to have a load, such as a lamp, on the circuit. A digital multimeter will sometimes indicate voltage when no load is present.
Each leg of a 240 volt breaker carries 120 volt measured to the neutral and 240 volts measured to the other leg. It is possible that your receptacle is fed from a double pole breaker.
September 12, 20160 found this helpful
I am sorry you are experiencing this difficulty.
I always recommend an electrician to troubleshoot electrical problems because of the danger associated with working electrical.
One possible cause of this problem would be a broken / fractured backpanel connection in your box or 50 amp breaker. The bottom leg of the 30 amp breaker (position 12) and the top leg of the 50 amp breaker (position 11) share a connection point. A load on the 30 amp breaker would warm up the connection point and expand the copper so that a fracture may close its gap and conduct again.
The wire needs to be verified that each is going to where your panel describes. An electrician could ring this out with his/her meter.
When relocating breakers, always check that the wiring can support the breaker rating.
Have the electrician measure the current. It sounds as though the circuit is overloaded. Is this tripping breaker a recent problem? Has electrical load been added to the circuit? An overload may take time to trip the breaker.
It sounds as if the load was connected and the breaker was turned on when installed. Installing a breaker with a live panel is not uncommon for a qualified electrician. The electrician would not have the breaker wired or turned on when installing because this could cause an arc.
Have an electrician check your neutral connections at the panel.
August 19, 20160 found this helpful
I would suspect you lost the neutral feeding your home. If so, this is for your utility to resolve.
August 18, 20160 found this helpful
It would be best to get an electrician.
The panel cover to the breaker panel needs to be removed and the breaker (or all breakers) checked to make sure voltage is still being supplied to each circuit (the breaker is actually on). Working electrical hot like this requires an electrician.
If each breaker is on, and you were experiencing plug problems, I would begin by de-energizing the breaker to that circuit and checking the receptacle installation and wiring for damage (rodent, heat, moisture, ...) by removing the receptacle and visually inspecting it and the wires behind it.
Again I would recommend an electrician for this work. 120 VAC has caused fatalities and needs to be respected.
August 18, 20160 found this helpful
An electrician can fix this for you.
A hot and neutral wire were probably taken to the switch and from the switch a switch leg and neutral were taken to the light.
You need a hot and neutral to your receptacle.
This can be done with an additional wire from the switch to the light, a hot wire, which would only connect to your receptacle wire.
If easier, you could run the hot and neutral from the switch to the receptacle.
I missed that the AC units were 120 VAC.
This means that they must be less than 1440 (120 x 15 x 0.8) watts and not run on the same leg at the same time.
Again, please consult an electrician.
Another box would probably require another feed, maybe another generator or power source.
The breakers is protecting the wire within the walls. It does not allow more current to flow through them than what they are rated for. This is to prevent overheating.
volts times amps equals watts. 240 volts times 15 amps equals 3600 watts. This is where your breaker will start tripping. If each A/C unit is less than 2880 watts (12 amps) (80%) then they can be run individually but not together.
An electrician is always your best bet.
Yes, I'd call an electrician.
You have a short in you wiring. The electrician will unwire the hot wires from the breaker and measure resistance between the two and between each of them and ground. These should all be open.
If the light switch were in the on position when the breaker was attempted, the problem is most likely at the fixture.
A poor connection.
A possible culprit here could be a poor electrical connection that is high resistance and when placed under any load produces a significant voltage drop. Be warned that a poor connection causing voltage drop produces heat.
Have an electrician look into this or have your utility check the connection at the pole.
I am sorry that this is happening. I do not know of any government organization that can help. I hope the previous response was helpful.
If it was not, and you are still searching for assistance, do not be afraid to ask at your church (if you attend). These people are also your family and you will find they are eager to help. Good luck!