I need help with a Sears Kenmore 156-18031. I am unable to remove the mechanism that attaches the feet. As I try to remove the thumb screw, it becomes tighter. If I turn the other way, it it becomes tighter, too.
Hello Suem 1009,
Thanks for the feedback. I thought about mentioning that I had used a hefty screwdriver to loosen that thumbscrew but chose to be brief. The screw wouldn't budge, turned either "lefty loosey" OR, "righty tighty" This was a very proprietary system for attaching feet on that Kenmore sewing machine. The shaft upon which the feet were attached had 2 holes in it. One to which the foot was attached, and another holding a stout pin. I finally was able to knock that pin out, allowing me to remove the mechanism and change the foot. However, the hole and thumbscrew are specific to that shaft . If I should lose that screw, other screws made for foot attaching will not work in it's place. Again thanks for trying to help me with your "lefty loosey, righty tighty" advice.
I have been using my great-grandmother's sewing machine for years, and it is just now giving me a problem. When I begin sewing by pushing the foot pedal, it will sometimes start and it will sometimes not. If it does, I have to have the pedal to the floor to keep it going, so I can only sew very fast. If I let it slow down, the machine gets stuck.
When it is stuck, turning the hand wheel toward me while pushing the foot pedal gets it going again. When I turn the hand wheel or when it does stop on me, it is always stiff or stuck in the same spot in its rotation. Every time I push the pedal, the motor does run, but I can't always get the needle to move.I have tried everything from cleaning it, disassembling what I can to check for problems, oiling it, and more. Am I most likely looking at a problem with the foot pedal, the motor, an internal belt or gear, or a timing issue?
By Jessica B.
It does sound like a problem with the foot pedal (timing problems usually show up as the needle hitting the plate or bobbin-you'll hear a little clunk every time the needle goes down into the bobbin area).
It could be as simple as a worn wire in the pedal, or it could be something more serious. You can try opening the foot pedal housing and giving the interior a look over-take clear photos first and be sure to check the photos before you disassemble anything-you may see the trouble straight off.
If you can't see any obvious problems, put the housing back on, check the voltage (should be printed on the bottom of the pedal), and try a different foot pedal in the same voltage to see if that sorts the problem. Foot pedals do go bad over time so that may be the problem.
You can find a replacement either at the Sears parts site:
searspartsdirect.com
You can also check eBay for vintage Kenmore parts.
There is a pressure plate right below the knob that u twist to unlock to wind your bobbin, this is your problem. U can get more life out of your machine without spending money.
I have a vintage Kenmore sewing machine model 1431 in awesome condition. The sewing foot does not move up and down. I opened the top and the belts are in fine and move. I can't even move the hand wheel. it's like frozen. Please advise.
By Rose
I love vintage machines but have given up on the electrical models because so often they have plastic or silicone parts that wear out and then are hard to find newly milled for replacement. However, here are some great links with tonnes of help for a dead-head machine (the nickname for a frozen handwheel in vintage sewing machine-speak:) I hope one of these links leads to a resolution for you, please update to let us know how it worked out!
repairsewingmachines.blogspot.co.../
www.managemylife.com/
www.google.co.uk/
I have a Kenmore model 21 sewing machine. Setting stitch length doesn't work right and it does not go in reverse. After it sits for a while you can not push the reverse button in.
By kermit
Something inside the machine is in trouble and this is a fix only a qualified repair tech can make.
Kenmore is a Sears sewing machine brand and their techs are 'factory trained' to properly repair all models of Kenmore sewing machines from a 50s era vintage model right up to the latest computerised model.
They might be a little more expensive than your local sewing machine repair tech but they have access to genuine Kenmore parts that will ensure your machine runs perfectly on return to you.
I'm not knocking your local tech, btw, just stating facts as I've learned them over the years. Your local tech doesn't have access to new milled replacement parts as easily and cheaply as the Kenmore techs especially on vintage machines.
I know this because I used to do a lot of vintage machine repair in conjunction with my home business of teaching total newbies how to sew:)
I can't get newly milled parts for a lot of the models I saw in the States and now here in the UK. But the techs who work in association with the specific manufacturers do have access to those newly milled parts, and the key words to a successful repair job 'newly milled'.
I used to buy vintage machines whenever I saw them because there was a wealth of salvageable parts on those machines if the machine isn't able to be fully restored to service. I learned to do that from other repair techs-they all do it if they don't associate with a manufacturer.
The trouble with salvage parts is that they wear out or break faster than a newly milled part because let's face it, a salvaged part has who knows how many sewing hours on it+who knows what kind of working conditions.
Sewing machine parts began to be milled in plastics back in the late 60s and plastic has a much shorter working life than metal. If the machine was abused (not oiled or serviced regularly, run too fast, forced through fabrics it wasn't intended to sew when engineered, and/or in dusty-linty conditions), that REALLY takes a toll on a salvaged part.
It can look great but because of the above, I don't find the salvaged parts satisfactory-sooner rather than later that plastic salvaged part IS going to fail and be a real disappointment to the sewer.
It's become too disappointing to my customers and I've given up sewing vintage machine repair unless it is a non-electric Singer-(non-electric) Singer parts are easy to salvage and restore to a new condition because the parts are all metal (usually steel).
My vintage Kenmore sewing machine's pressure foot won't go up or down. The handle just moves freely without lifting the foot. How do I fix it?
By Terri
Check to make sure the bobbin winding feature isn't set; check to see if the presser foot lever has been loosened, and finally, check to be sure the presser foot is actually connected to the lifter lever.
If none of that helps it is time to call Sears and schedule a visit with the Kenmore repair tech.
After sewing a few stitches on my Kenmore machine the thread will curl around the thread guide and come loose at the top of my machine at the point of the thread guide. I've had this machine for years and this is the first time I've experienced this problem. Do you have any idea what would cause this?
By Josephine from Arlington, TX
My first thought as a sewing teacher and self-taught repair tech is that there is a burr in the part the thread is tangling in - it may be an easy repair you can do at home if the part is attached on the outside of the head. Scroll down to the 3*'d paragraph.
You may need to have a qualified repair tech remove it, sand it, or change it out for a new one (he/she will have the speciality knowledge and tools). However, it could also be other issues - use the following to troubleshoot your problem:
Have you got into the habit of threading the machine with the presser foot down? (This bad habit develops over time for even the most conscientious sewer, we've all done it! But it is a really bad habit - threading with the foot down engages the tension discs and so when you start to sew the thread is still clamped in the tension discs, can't move, and will un-thread)
Are you using the correct needle size and thread for your project? (Consult the user guide, the manufacturer's website, or any number of sewing sites - all of these sources have a chart listing correct needle and thread for many types of fabrics)
How old is the thread you are using and is it a high quality thread? (Thread actually does have a 'shelf life' - old thread frays and the frays catch on machine parts; less expensive thread is cheap for a reason and will not perform as well in your machine)
How many sewing hours are on the needle you are using? (The more sewing hours on a needle the duller it becomes, also the eye can become very slightly burred which will cause the thread to catch which will then cause the thread to 'drag' and un-thread. Or break.)
***Speaking of burrs, have you checked the threading path for burrs? (Put your finger into a piece of organza or sheer stocking and run your finger along the thread path; feed a narrow strip of very sheer fabric or stocking along the parts of the thread path you can't feel with your fingers. Any burrs will cause snags which will lead to un-threading, tangling, and breaks - you can either try sanding down the burrs with a piece of fine sandpaper being careful to vacuum the dust before running the machine again, or you can take it to a trained sewing machine repair tech)
When was the last time you cleaned the lint and fluff from the tension discs? (Use dental floss between the discs just as you would for your teeth)
When was the last time you pulled the head cover and cleaned the lint and fluff out? (Be sure to photograph the screws in situ before removing; use a muffin tin to hold the screws while cleaning; brush or carefully vacuum the lint - don't use canned air as that will only drive the lint further into areas of the machine you can't reach at home)
How old is the machine? (Older machines are known as 'vintage', most vintage machines built after the late 60s use silicone or plastic gears which do wear out over a much shorter time than the metal ones. You can try all of the above and still have the problem if one or more of the gears have reached the end of their service life.)
Finally, when was the last time you took it to a qualified repair tech for a complete servicing? (Servicing includes a complete go-over of the machine to see if any parts are failed or about to fail, cleaning of all the parts you can't reach at home, and oiling. Professional servicing of a sewing machine, preferably by a factory trained repair tech, keeps your machine in reliable sewing condition. Yes it can cost as much as $100+ if your machine needs more than just a normal servicing but depending on the features/sentimental value of your machine it is money well spent. The longest a machine should go without a servicing is 2-3 years and that is only if you have been diligent about caring for your machine by using the right needles/threads/sewing habits, and cleaning lint and fluff you can reach at home after every other project. If you aren't diligent your machine should see the repair tech once a year.)
**About vintage electric machines: Many reasons you may be reluctant to splash out on a new machine - it was the machine you learned to sew on/it was your gran's, mum's/you sewed your wedding dress/baby's christening gown/all your children's clothing/your daughter's wedding dress on/the features and quality of stitches on it are amazing and replacing it would cost hundreds of dollars.
But vintage electric machines have a lot of plastic and silicone parts that do wear down and fail. So eventually you will have to take a decision - repair or replace.
If your repair tech can source newly milled parts, great! Have it repaired and enjoy many more hours of sewing!
But if he/she has to use salvaged parts, well, it's time to buy or start saving to buy because those salvaged parts could be off a machine that was abused by the previous owner - you never know how many sewing hours are on a salvaged part and you never know the conditions that poor thing laboured under.
So a salvaged part is unreliable - if your repair tech has to use salvaged parts to get your machine running again, be prepared for the inevitable - part failure resulting in yet another trip to the sewing machine doctor:(
I have a Kenmore mini Ultra, and the foot is not raising so the fabric can move as I'm sewing. I've barely used the machine and it seems like a hardware problem, but I'm not sure what to do. Thanks!
By Jillian
Is it still under warranty? If yes it's worth it to take it to the Sears repair centre to have it fixed. It does sound like an internal part has broken through no fault of yours and so should be covered under the warranty.
I have a Sears Kenmore sewing machine, model 1515. To what does the spring in the lid connect?
By Cheri
